Wednesday, June 7, 2023

Now to the Tetons

Headed north to spend a few days in Grand Teton National Park. We've been to the Park a few times over the years. The scenery is beautiful, but the animal sightings have been hit or miss for us. On this trip we discovered that Bill's niece and her family would be visiting the Tetons while we were in the area. We planned on getting together for dinner before heading back to Montana. As luck would have it we 'ran into' them when we pulled into String Lake picnic area for lunch on our 1st full day in the Tetons. 

It had been raining all morning so we didn't head out until late. In the meantime, Becky had sent a text that they were hiking around String Lake. While I was taking a few pictures of the larkspur blooming...Bill texted Becky for their location. No message back, but we were only 5 miles from String Lake so we decided we'd head in that direction. Once we parked the beast I noticed someone who looked very familiar sitting at a picnic table...Becky & her family. We caught up with what they were up to for a bit and set up dinner plans for the evening. They headed off to see if they could scare up some bears and/or moose. We pulled out the food basket just as it started raining...again! The monsoon season has been crazy this year.

Hidden Falls
Friday the weather was much improved. We decided to hike to Hidden Falls near Jenny Lake. It was a moderate out and back hike on a very popular trail. The overall length was supposed to be 4 miles which somehow turned out to be over 7 miles (according to my Fitbit) by the time we returned to the parking lot. It was a spectacular waterfall of 100 feet near the end of Cascade Canyon and on the far western shore of Jenny Lake.

It appears most people choose to take the boat across the lake and hike the short trail to the fall's overlook. Luckily, we are not those people. Otherwise, we would have missed out on some cool critter sightings.

Trail up Inspiration Point...NPS Photo/J. Bonney







Just past the waterfall the trail continued up towards Inspiration Point. A fantastic view of Jenny Lake from the cliff. The trail is a bit exposed with a rocky & steep drop off towards the lake.

View of Jenny Lake from Inspiration Point

While taking in the view & having our snack a Unita chipmunk paid its respects...looking for a handout. Once again you can tell when an animal has been fed by turons, aka tourists. Poor thing was sadly disappointed by us. 

Unita chipmunk


As we headed back down the trail a few people mentioned a 'bear' was somewhere on the trail ahead. It turned out to be true. The trail was following the lakeshore when a year-old cinnamon black bear popped up on the trail ahead of us with mom 'somewhere up the rocky mountainside.' 

When I saw the bear I got the bear spray in my hand & removed the safety latch. Since it seemed really interested in licking & pawing the muddy pool of water I took a few photos. It wasn't too long before the people on the other side started pushing forward with their cell phones out...the bear turned quickly to run from them & then it saw us.

Bill said he didn't think I could 'move that fast up the rocky slope.' I started popping my hiking poles together & the bear moved off the trail & toward the water. It wandered past us along the shoreline. We never saw the sow despite keeping an eye out looking for her. Not one person who passed us had bear spray on their person. Jeez, you can even rent a can to carry while hiking. My second time pulling out the spray...you just never know when one will pop out on a trail.

We did see a pika in the rocks that was curious about the crazy people taking its picture. Slightly surprised to see one at an elevation less than 8000 feet. No one else noticed the little guy sitting on the rocks.

Once back at the trail head I saw a flash of bright orange...off I go after another bird. I knew it was a male Western Tanager with its bright yellow & orange feathers. 

The 1st time we ever saw one was in 2014 at Cave Falls in the Bechler area of Yellowstone National Park. At first we thought it was someone's escaped parrot it was so unexpected & vivid. We managed to get a shot of the bird with a huge dragonfly. 

Male Western Tanager

I'm always trying to get a better shot of them...flighty birds are difficult to get a clear shot of since they always flit from tree to tree. Lucky for us there were 2 birds near the Jenny Lake trail...a male & a female. 

The female posed for her shot. The darn male was a bit more difficult...especially so since the camera was not allowing me use the automatic focus. 

Long story...once again I 'forgot' the location the other switch to fix the issue. One of these days...



Female Western Tanager

We met a very nice couple from North Carolina who were spending their summer hiking the tallest mountain in each state. She wanted to know if the bird I was taking a picture of was a mountain bluebird.  Even though it was not they were pretty excited to see a western tanager. They were heading to Yellowstone next & hadn't seen a bear in the Tetons so we passed on some information as to where the best locations to see one...or 10 were in YNP. 

Headed out for a lunch of ice cream...7+ mile hike claimed we burned enough calories so why not!

Tomorrow, we head to Bozeman by way of YNP...fingers crossed for a few bear sightings along the way.

Upland Larkspur

Marmot

Lupine...buds ready to pop!


Teewinot Mountain from trail


*click photo to enlarge



Tuesday, June 6, 2023

Dinosaur National Monument

Last view leaving Capital Reef National Park


We packed up bright & not too darn early (at least for us) to start our trip back north. We headed to Dinosaur National Monument near Vernal, UT. An interesting spot for a day or two. Our plan was to spend one full day biking in an area we had not seen on our last visit.


View of the backside of Split Moutain
We headed out to an area we didn’t visit 5-years ago. The drive along Brush Creek Road out to Island Park Road wasn’t too bad. There were quite a few potholes & farms along the way. 

We passed a very interesting Ranch just before the turn on to Island Park Road...it called itself an Alpaca Ranch, but none were visible from the road. There were a large number of bronze sculptures of various dinosaurs, eagles & pterodactyls...certainly an odd assortment. 

They must have a large family since there was an enclosed water slide & indoor pool. Somebody has (or had) a lot of $$...alpaca raising must be good business.

We turned off of Island Park Road & parked at Rainbow Campground along the Green River. There were only 4 sites along the river, but not sure how one could spend anytime outside. The mosquitoes attacked as soon as you exited the vehicle. Wow. 

Thankfully they couldn’t keep up once we started peddling up the road. The scenery along the road was not as spectacular as Capital Reef, but the ride was very pleasant. Lots of flowers blooming and no vehicles. 


Wyoming Indian Paintbrush


Pink sego lily











At some point I managed to lose the lens cap off the camera. We packed up the bikes & drove back along the road to find it. Luckily it was found. We still had to drive most of the road & it showed up in the very last spot where it never was taken off the camera. That’s always the way…


Island Park overlook...where I found the lens cap


Mormon cricket

We went into the Colorado side of the Monument just to be different & have lunch. The roadway was covered & I mean covered with 1000’s of grasshoppers? 

Not exactly sure what these creatures were doing, but they were getting crushed by vehicles. You could hear it too...way beyond creepy. We found out later that these were Morman crickets in their swarming phase.

Check out what's happening in Elko, Nevada ...a big problem right now with these critters.





Of course I had to chase after the birds in the Green River Campground. I managed a get a couple of decent shots of a few birds... Western Kingbird, Tree Swallows, Lazuli Bunting, & a Say's Phoebe. Lost the shot of a Western Yellow Warbler...that darn bird landed on the sagebrush directly in front of me. Did I get the shot...nope, foiled by the inability to focus on the darn thing.


Say's Phoebe
The Say's Phoebe was a much easier to capture. She had built a nest on top of a light at the campground bathroom. It was fun watching her fly a set pattern across from our site and return to her nest. 

Patience paid off on getting the shot. Never got the warbler...he teased me with his song, but never got another clear view.


Say's Phoebe on nest




Western Kingbird

When you can't get the critter shot if all else fails there are wildflowers and if you're lucky butterflies & bees. The flowers have been abundant throughout the trip. During our lunch the hillside on the Colorado side of the Monument was covered in Arrowleaf balsamroot & Lupine. Two of my favorite flowers...always brings a smile to my face!


Arrowleaf balsamroot

Lupine

Purplish copper butterfly on shaggy fleabane

*click to enlarge photos


Sunday, June 4, 2023

Thunderstorms Wreak It


Eph Hanks Tower


Road into Capital Gorge

On our last full day in the Park we decided to bike to the end of pavement & head down Capital Gorge to the trail head. A bike to hike rather than worry about parking in the small lot. It was a beautiful blue sky cloud free day... or so we thought. We rode down Capital Gorge & Bill decided to shoot a little video of our route. The canyon walls are really tall & from the bike you certainly can appreciate the beauty much better than from inside the truck. 


Capital Gorge

We locked up the bikes and took off for the 1-mile hike along the canyon floor. Along the way were a few petroglyphs carved into the canyon walls. It was difficult to see them from the ‘idiots’ that feel the need to destroy stuff.


A bit further down you could see the signatures of pioneers that had passed through in the late 1800’s... they would stand in the bed of their wagons and sign their names in the wall. Hoping their signature would survive future floods. A few even used bullets to shoot their names in the cliff walls... although that seems like a waste of ammunition.


Pilgrim signatures


Petroglyph

Empty water pocket...aka Tanks

"arch" below tanks

We decided to take the spur trail up to see the water pockets...aka Tanks. Pretty steep rocky trail, but the view of the canyon floor was certainly worth the climb. A bit nervous about the decent back down, but up we headed. The Tanks were a bit disappointing...very little water in the first few and none in the largest one. We stopped briefly for water & noticed an increasingly dark cloud approaching from the rear. You really do not want to be in a slot canyon if rain is going to dump so out we headed rather quickly.



Blue skies moving slowly towards us

Thankfully, a picnic shelter was at the trail head and we moved our bikes under it. Just in time. The rain, wind & thunder started a few minutes later. The amazing thing was the number of people who headed down into the canyon while it was raining. We waited it out & once it looked safe we took off down the 2 miles of dirt road (more like mud at this point) to the pavement. Another dark cloud was approaching as we reached the pavement. Once again we hunkered down to wait it out. This storm took its sweet time moving off, but once the blue sky opened up we headed out for the 7 miles back to the campground. Since it was still looking rather stormy & no other shelters along the way we put the bikes in Turbo mode and booked it. Actually hit a bit of rain, but we were dry by the time we hit our campsite. 

The first time we’ve been caught by the weather. The forecast LIED.

All in all we had a great time in Capital Reef...lots of good weather. We rode the bikes & did a few hikes every day. The best thing about the Park is the lack of crowds. You cannot say that about Zion or Arches. 

The pizza joint from 5 years ago is also still in business. The owner claimed it was our anniversary & had the whole outside group of people sing to us. Weird right? All because we ordered a brownie for dessert. Got to love it!


*click photos to enlarge



Saturday, June 3, 2023

Hike to Hickman Natural Bridge

Capital Dome



Hickman Natural Bridge

Under the Bridge


Backside of Hickman Natural Bridge

Today's activity was hike to Hickman Natural Bridge. Yet another one we didn't do on our last visit. I'm starting to wonder what did we do on that trip? The hike was a pretty darn easy loop out to a natural arch & return to the parking lot. Usually super busy since it is rated as 'easy'. The lot was full and the road was packed with parked cards when we returned from the hike. 


Kingcup cactus

 

We found a few smaller kid sized arches along the trail along with wildflowers & cactus blooming. 

At the natural bridge we were approached by a ‘friendly’ Unita Chipmunk. It obviously had been fed by others. Too bad for him that we’re not that easily manipulated by his begging. Cute, but no food for you!


Unita chipmunk










Hiking back down


After the hike we drove back down the road to Pleasant Creek for our lunch sitting on the tailgate. A couple of local families were playing in the creek & also having lunch before taking off on a hike. Their chatter & screaming wasn’t what we wanted for our hike so once they chose their direction we headed off in the opposite direction. We found another trail along the creek with only the flow of water & birds singing.


Stansbury cliffrose

Scarlet gilia


Plains prickly pear cactus



Bill rearranging rocks

Bill spent some time trying to rearrange the flow of the creek by tossing in rocks. I spent my time chasing birds. My Merlin bird app is pretty cool...record a bird song and the possible birds pop up. Then all I need to do is spot the bird for a positive id...easy right? Actually it is not so easy. 

The Yellow Warbler wasn’t playing fair...for a bright yellow bird they sure can hide in the cottonwoods. After chasing the sound for quite some time I found the darn thing. Too bad I had the short lens camera. It is a pretty bird with a lovely song.




 

Yellow warbler

The other birds were a bit easier to see...I found a western tanager, spotted tohee, black capped grosbeak & northern flicker. The flicker was sticking its head out a tree hole nest. That was pretty cool to spot. The Stellar Jays must hate having their picture taken since every single one took off as I lifted the camera.


Northern Flicker in nest cavity



Female Western Tanager


*click to enlarge photos

Friday, June 2, 2023

Road Trip to Kodachrome State Park


Decided today to drive to Kodachrome State Park...about 2 hours from camp just to check it out. Thunderstorms were called for so we decided a drive would be much safer than a hiking or biking. Route 12 takes you through Escalante National Monument on the way to both Kodachrome State Park & Bryce National Park. 

It was a scouting mission for a future trip. We wandered around Kodachrome and had our lunch overlooking sage bushes and sego lilies in bloom. 


Sego lily








 



Basin Campground shower...wow!


The Basin Campground's bathrooms were amazing...fancy slate shower in its own little room. The best part was no slot for coins, aka free & honest to goodness all the hot water you could stand! If you've camped, you know how awesome it is to have unlimited time in a clean hot shower. 

The Tin Can's shower is pretty good as far as showers go...just can't take a long one. Our freshwater tank holds 35 gallons and the hot water heater has a 6-gallon capacity...so a Navy shower is necessary. 

Navy shower... get the water hot, get wet, turn water off, soap up & then turn the water back on for a quick rinse. We use a clean bucket to catch the water while waiting for the hot water to reach the faucet. It can then be used for cooking or cleaning dishes rather than wasting it down the drain. 

Since we were in Capital Reef for 8 days we really needed to conserve a bit. Hitching up and taking the trailer to dump the wastewater is something you'd rather not have to do.


Cowboy roundup

As we left Kodachrome we were stopped by a cattle roundup with cowboys...I do love a cowboy on horseback! A few were pretty young, but man they could ride their horses. 


These little cowboys had on their cowboy hats & boots with spurs. It was fun watching them gather up the strays as they headed down the road.



Young cowpoke herding the cattle






A bit of weather



Ground at 9400 foot elevation

The weather got a bit nasty on the drive back to Capital Reef. As we went up in elevation the temperatures fell quickly to 37 degrees. The rain turned to snow. It may have been heavy hail...couldn't tell when we stopped the truck. Whatever fell from the sky was white & on the roadway & forest floor... pretty decent amount. A few miles down the mountain it was back to rain. When we arrived back at camp no snow & whatever rain may have fallen had already dried out & the sky was blue.